KAILAS Totem Cam
Could I put 6 stars? It deserve it.
This is simply the best cams available on the market. Even the newest DMM Dragon, WC Friends and BD Ultralight are not good as the oldest Totem cams. Why? Because of the design that applies an equalized load onto each lobe. That's why Totem cams are also a lot better on flare crack than most cams. The holding power is simply the best. Others cams have one stem with 4 lobes. Totem is 4 wires with 4 lobes. Each totem cams is mostly 2 cams of 2 lobes each equalized by a sling. When belayer said that you should put 2 protections close together, it's what you did each time when you put a single totem cam. You can also just fit 2 lobes in the crack and clip the wire of the 2 camming lobes. This tiny placement makes the cam the best for aid climbing. Totem cams are the more flexible cams make it very good in a horizontal placement. They don't walk as other. They fit where no other cams fit. The apply force is the same no matter how the cam is open or close. Others cam are more strength half close and decrease when the cams open. So when the crack is flare all cams will not be perfectly balanced for the load tension on lobes except the Totem. It will always be perfectly balanced 25% on each 4 lobes. What you learn when building an anchor is it should be equalized. Totem cam is the only cam that will be always perfectly equalized. The head of the Totem is so much narrow. It can fit in a small pocket where other cams of the same size range will not. It's narrow because the springs of the totem are on the wires not beside the lobes. Even the X4 that BD describes like this: ''The X4's embedded cam springs allow for an ultra-narrow head width that fits in those tight spots other cams won't.'' is wider than the Totem of the same size range. One of the main advantages of the BD C3 it's the super narrow head but it's only 3 lobes. With the Totem cam, you have the same wide but made with 4 lobes. What should I say more? Also, the Totem is longer than all other cams except those with a double sling when is extended like DMM Dragons or New WC Friends. Longer cams are less prone to walk and does not need quickdraws as shorter cams. Totem allows 3 positions to clip the biner if a rock is in the way or might open the gate. So you can move the biner where it's the best. For aid climbing, you can also clip the cams high. The downside of the Totem is it rack on the wide side so it's bulkier on the harness and it's not super light but I don't care of that small minus. This cam is 6 stars out of 5. It's simply above all others, period. When we compare cams every climbers claim some feeling to pretend wich cam feel better. The climber wants to promote what he uses for the last 10 years just to convince himself he did the right purchase. Most of what I explain in the review are facts, not feeling and this could not be ignored except by a no-brainer. Sorry to be rude.