KAILAS Swift Ice Screw
Awesome / géniale
EN: Kailas ice screws are just awesome !! Very light and easy to screw in the ice !! 1/2 turn and you can already let go without falling! Ice surface to clean is very small ... It's even hard to believe how much it's good. No more BD express !!! / FR: Les vis à glace Kailas sont tout simplement géniales!! Très légères et facile à planter dans la glace!! 1/2 tour et on peut déjà la lacher sans qu elle tombe! Surface de glace à nettoyer très petite... j en revenais pas tellement j ai été surpris! Fini les Express de BD!!!
Simply the best in the world
THe petzl ice screw was the best before this Kailas ice screw. We have to wait for the newest green screw from black diamond but for now it's the lightest ice screw in the world. The tooths grab the ice as easy as the petzl. The handle does not open by itself like the petzl. It rack better than the Petzl because it's less thick where the hanger join the tube. The hanger is also I beam frame like any modern lightweight carabiner. You can girth hitch the hanger with a sling and it wont cut the sling if you fall.What I really like the most is the hanger is shorter but still good to clip 2 carabiners. Shorter hanger mean this screw need less cleaning. It will dig easily around icicle or any other obstacles. The plastic handle make it possible to grab in your mouth, unlike the Black Diamond.
Ice Master 2.0
Lighter than the Petzl Laser Light
Nicely balanced and really feels like nothing in your hand. I like that the hangar can hold two carabiners and the fact it s diameter is significantly smaller than the BD which makes it less of a pain in the ass to chip away at ice so you can screw the whole thing in. It s also thicker than the BD so it s merely impossible to bend and warp. The handle is plastic which is nice so it s light and the colour won t fade. It s also beefy enough when wearing thicker gloves. When closed it ergonomically fits in your whole palm giving you a more even push on the end. Also when opened up it s a lot longer and the angle makes it a breeze to screw in. I was a little apprehensive about the threads and them being so thin but it screwed in very nicely and felt solid. The teeth were suuuuper sharp and are a smidge bigger than the BD. I tried to take a photo of the backside of the teeth which you can see is also well sharpened on an angle. The bite on these things are phenomenal. I don t know if they re just brand new but usually only a one quick half screw in-out-in and these were in solid enough to open up the handle and finish the job. Only time will tell how they will hold up in really cold temps to see how the steel and aluminum react with each other. Also curious to see how the sharpening process will turn out since there is very little steel to play with. All in all I am very impressed with them.
I bought four of those 16 cm screws last year and tried them out. Wow, they are amazing! Much lighter than the BD Express screws I am used to. And they bite really quickly to the ice. This means a safer lead climb because half a turn and the screw is in, don't have to spend time or fight to get the screw started into the ice. And one thing I love is the crank. When unfolded, it is a pretty long so it is easy to screw. Yet, because of the angle relative to the ice surface, I can screw in small areas. There is less need to clean the area around where I am going to screw. I really recommend those screws, I wish I had only those in my rack.